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Monday, January 27, 2014

West Coast Diary: The Lay of the Land (Day 1)

After sleeping off those long hours of the plane journey, we went down to breakfast at the hotel where we were staying (Hotel Stratford). It was a simple affair; cereals, juice, coffee and some fresh oranges. As this was our first meal of a long day we decided to supplement this by going to a place we passed the previous day.

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Sears Fine Foods looked busy and had a great breakfast menu. After asking the waitress for her recommendation, I went for the 18 Swedish pancakes with loganberry jam, and Olga for an omelette. Next time I should have kept with my instincts - the pancakes were okay, but the traditional American ones looked a lot better.

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We then headed off for the Big Bus Tour (starting at Union Square), which was the tripadvisor recommended bus tour to take. This time the recommendation was spot on, and it definitely looked and felt like the better of the bus tours around SF.

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Then came our first shock. Whilst riding around town we noticed a large amount of homeless people, either just hanging out on corners or lines up for what was probably a soup kitchen. Furthermore, we saw the people doing drugs in the open around the tenderloin district (which our guidebook had warned us against going into) which was quite a shock (in all the times I've been around London or other major cities, the only place we ever once saw this was in Oporto, and that was just a couple of people).

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Passing by the City Hall the area became cleaner and generally nicer to look at. The bus then went past the Oak/Pine St park which smelled strongly of eucalyptus from the trees which encircled it.

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Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge it didn't seem as long as I was led to believe. But it definitely was very windy and a lot colder.

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Pacific Heights had very nice houses, whereas Haight was very bohemian - painted houses and a hippy culture (apparently).

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Passing through the city we went between big skyscrapers, glass-sided buildings, and old port buildings, always a different architecture as we went around the next corner. Also the steepness of the hills kept on surprising us. Just when you think you've seen the steepest one, another one blows your breath away (literally).

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The old trams that run along the seafront. These are bought up from places around the world and set to work on this tourist route.

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We got off at Fisherman's Wharf where we saw the sea lions at Pier 39. At midday this area wasn't very busy nor very touristy, although the smell of the sea lions, and the flies that buzzed around us there was quite annoying.

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We took the next bus back to Union Square and went back to the hotel to rest and freshen up.

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Following a recommended route, we walked along Kearne Street and up Bush Street to see the Chinese Gate. We entered into Chinatown and walked quite a bit around. The buildings were very chinese style, and there were lots of chinese around, but it wasn't bustling like the hollywood movies make you believe. Maybe we were just lucky.

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We found the City View Restaurant (Lonely Planet top choice) and just made it before they closed to have some of their Dim Sum. This was very tasty, but there wasn't much choice left. Next time it would be worth getting there earlier for the full menu choice.

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Carrying on our walking route, we headed up the very steep hill to Coit Tower. On these streets cars are advised that they have to park at 90 degrees to the sidewalk. I can imagine what would happen if you don't, but luckily everyone had followed the sign's advice.

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Upon reaching the tower we found out it was currently closed for refurbishment. Despite this, the views from on top of this hill were worth trek, looking out over the Golden Gate Bridge as well as downtown.

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There were hundreds of parrots on the trees around the Coit Tower, eating, squawking, and flying in big groups. It was quite a sight (and everyone stopped to look and take photos of them).

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We then walked down Union Street to Washington Square where we picked up the Big Bus to get back to Union Square. From here we got the Big Bus again to travel over the GG Bridge, seeing the park as well. We were hoping to visit the de Young Museum here, but we arrived to find it was closed on Mondays. We took a few photos of the grounds and then caught the next bus back (not before a fire engine arrived to check out someone who had collapsed in the park).

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Getting back to Union Square again, a bit of shopping ensued (Victoria's Secret, Aeropostale...) which was duly dropped off at the hotel before heading off to the Cheesecake Factory.


Last time we went to one of these restaurants we ordered main meals and then wondered why we couldn't manage the desserts, for which they are famous. This time we tried to be clever. Olga ordered a small salad, and I ordered a Santa Fe salad. They were still huge! The table of chinese sitting near us had ordered two main plates, and were sharing between the four of them. Olga said they were clever and knew how to do it. Then came another 2 plates of food, so they ended up with a full plate each. They must have got used to eating the American way.

Again we were unable to eat desserts, so went back to the hotel, hoping that the 25 metre walk might help digest the food somehow.

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One thing I forgot to mention, at Fisherman's Wharf, the seagulls were enormous! Also very aggressive. Luckily we weren't eating outside at the time.


Off to sleep and plan the next day around this amazing city.

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